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THE
humble baju kurung. It’s
versatile, suitable for the festive seasons, at formal functions or even as
office attire. The dress is meant to be worn loosely and is rather conservative
looking. Still, it has its own special characteristics, which represents grace
and tradition for the Malays.
Despite
being branded ‘old fashion’ and conservative, the baju kurung is still popular.
It’s very comfortable and can be stylish if you know how to carry it off with
the right accessories like the selendang and brooches.
A typical baju kurung is worn with a
sarong. This sarong can be tied in a style known as the “ikatan ombak mengalun”
where the knot is tied at one side of the sarong, either on the right or left
depending on the wearer’s convenience. This style is preferred because it’s
more practical and easy for walking when you take big strides.
In the old days, the village women
will have a “kain kelubung” to cover their heads as they leave their houses.
This is a sort of head-cover to shade from the blazing sun or it’s simply used
as a shawl. Sometimes, the sarong is used in the form of “kain berdagang luar”
where the sarong, tied at waist level, is worn over the baju kurung. This
sarong is usually made of kain telepok, songket, gerus or kain batik.
Types of Traditional Malay Attire
Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga
Baju kurung is the traditional
apparel for Malay women in Malaysia. This loose-fitting knee-length baggy baju
kurung is worn with a sarung. Normally sarung is worn for casual wear at home.
The Teluk Belanga has a typical
neckline with no collar, stitched in the ‘tulang belut or the ‘mata lalat’
style. As the name suggests, this baju kurung hails from Teluk Belanga, the
island of Singapore, which was previously the capital state of Johor.
Baju Kurung Cekak Musang
This style of baju kurung has the
stylish Mandarin-inspired collar or Cekak Musang. The prominent collar comes
with five buttons including two buttons for the collar.
This form of Baju Kurung used to be
made of velvet with matching songket. It is often adorned with jewelleries and
is usually custom-made especially for traditional Malay weddings.
Modern Baju Kurung
This is the latest and modern
approach to baju kurung. Even the modern baju kurung has evolved with time. It
is shorter, shapelier and worn with a long skirt and comes in various designs.
Unlike the typical baju kurung,
kurung modern top has no pesak. Instead, it’s replaced by zip and darts while
the bottom can be a long skirt, A-line skirt, pareo or mermaid skirt.
This bottom skirt also comes in different
styles like wrapped, pleated, with or without slit. While the slit can take
about 2 feet long either in front, at the side, the back or with just two flaps
at the back.
The modern baju kurung has evolved so
much that it comes in many forms. You can see modern baju kurung in all kinds
of fabrics from satin, songket, chequered, polka dots, geometric patterns,
batik, pastel shades and lively colors.
Kebarung
or Kebaya Kurung
This is the alternative baju kurung for those who want to
wear something different. It is a combination of the baju kebaya and the baju
kurung. It is loose and almost reaches the ankles and it is not one of the
traditional clothes of the Malay.
The ‘Kebaya Kurung’ has a kebaya cut with long sleeves and
fastened at the front using chained brooches. It gives out a comfortable
outlook on the whole. Women who are cautious of their figure will opt for this
style as it offers maximum comfort and is equally appealing.
Baju
Kurung Kedah
This is a short blouse with a baju kurung neckline and a
three-quarter sleeves. It is comfortable and practical as you can move around
easily because of the practical and hassle-free design.
It is worn with long skirt or batik sarung or a kain
pelikat tied to the front with the grand motif infront. Those days, most
married Malay women would wear this attire.
Baju
Melayu
While the Malay women opt for Baju Kurung, the Malay men
wear Baju Melayu. This shirt-like traditional outfit is divided into three
parts. The first is the long sleeved shirt-like fastened together by studs
called butang or kancing.
The studs usually made of different types of butang from
the normal ones to gold, silver, precious or semi-precious stones. The studs
may also be connected with a light metal chain, almost string-like, which will
be concealed behind the shirt.
The collar looks like a stiff Mandarin collar known as the
Cekak Musang. The second part is the trousers. These two parts are often made
out of the same type of fabric.
The
third is the kain samping, a skirt-type adornment, which is folded around the
waist. This kain samping is made of kain tenun, kain songket or simply kain
pelikat. To complete the whole attire, baju Melayu is often worn with a
headgear called songkok.
(Written by Zieman)
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